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Fine for one side of an LP, but not long enough for a CD. I have to take the CD out about half-way through and do it again. It definitely took a somewhat harsh edge away, leaving a more apparent rich midrange. I also noticed, however, that it tightened up a loose bass a bit.
Demagnetizing your laptop, smartphone, or credit cards is not advisable. You and they will definitely sound worse, though you may sound louder as a result.
So why did clarity vinyl appear to die out once Classic Records ceased to be? If it makes such a difference, I would have thought an enterprising person like Chad would have QRP press all their vinyl without the black pigment, thereby obviating the need for demagnetisation.
Many of the records put out on Clarity vinyl turned out to be very noisy crackly, etc. Not sure why. So only play clear records, got it. The next and seriously annoying question is: Do the demagnetization results indicate that only black records contain the offending ferrous materials?
I was intrigued by the demgnetization issue when I read your original review of the first Furutech device. Well it worked it's magic and then some, on both records and CDs. I do this on each side of the record or CD before play, it never fails to yield beneficial results. The new ones have a rubber coating around the tip, much safer in case you have a slip up!
Once run through the cycle you have a very soft cloth, free of all the nasty chemicals. Simply fold it to quarter size and it's the perfect size for an album side. Turn on the platter and let the cloth lightly contact the LP for a couple of spins, the static is gone! Tape heads can be demagnetized the same way by using the coils in the top of soldering guns with the same process.
The Cassette demagnetizing cartridge does the same thing only is much more convenient. My point is a 12 or 10 inch record could be demagnetized the same way with a large coil of wire and the cost would be very cheap. Finding a CRT demagnetizing coil would probably work or something homemade. A CD or 7 inch record could be demagnetized with a soldering gun. The diameter of the coil should not be much larger than the item being demagnetized.
The CRT is on, not off, in order to see if the color problems are corrected. For all else being demagnetized, it can be on or off. Go to ebay and buy a used Radio Shack magnetic tape eraser. And yes, it works.
I haven't had a chance to use it on an LP but I will today once we're dug out out the snow. I did use it on an old cassette and it's quite powerful. It grabbed onto the cassette and made the wheels buzz like crazy.
This is very interesting and something that i can easily test myself. In my job as a nondestructive technician, we use Electromagnetic Field Meters or also called Gauss meters all the time to test for residual magnetism in ferrous metals after inspection. I will bring one home and test several Lps for trace magnetism. What the hay, will only take a little of my spare time and if it works, bonus for me. PS that Magnaflux unit is volt just incase your thinkin one for home I have the two Big Star albums that Classic reissued on Clarity gram vinyl.
They sound amazing. However, I have no other vinyl issues of those two albums to compare against. Not like anyone expected the CD to be better! Agreed, though - if Clarity vinyl is such a bonus, how come no one's using it today? This LP already sounds great, but after demagnetizing it, I thing it sounds even more analog?
Could be pseudo hearing, needs more testing with different LPs. When using TDK Head Eraser, I had headphones on, and when click the demag device, I heard a hum through the cartridge, thus the attenuation process of demagnetizer worked at least. As far as I remember, the Continuum table uses magnetic suspension maybe my memmory fails me, but others like Verdier do. Considering the wieght of the 'table the magnetic field must be substantial, at least compared to any magnetism in ferrous coloring in the vinyl.
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